Get ready for Halloween with this Amigurumi Grim Reaper Doll pattern! While the design might seem simple at first glance, it offers a detailed and intricate explanation that will guide you through creating a truly realistic and spooky toy. The scythe the doll holds immediately grabs attention, and the grim expression on its face adds to its eerie charm—perfect for Halloween!
Grim Reaper Doll Amigurumi Pattern
This Grim Reaper Doll is dressed in a large, black robe, and many parts of its body and arms are crafted inside the robe, adding depth and dimension to the design. Don’t be intimidated by the long instructions; it’s all part of creating a truly unique and lifelike Halloween amigurumi! If you’re making a special Grim Reaper doll for Halloween, this pattern is just what you need.
Ready to craft your own spooky Grim Reaper Amigurumi Doll? Let’s begin!
Designer: Laurel Duruisseau
Materials
Size E (3.5 mm) crochet hook
Stitch markers
Sewing needle & thread
2 x 4 mm safety eyes
3” dowel rod (approx 1/4” diameter)
Polyester stuffing
Black embroidery floss
Craft glue
16 gauge wire – found at hardware stores
Wire cutters
Worsted Weight Yarns:
White (A) – 10 metres
Black (B) – 12 metres
Grey (C) – 2 meters
Brown (D) – 2 metres
Finished Size: 6 inches tall
Level: Advanced Beginner
Skills: crochet, basic hand sewing
Abb.
ch: chain
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
tc: treble crochet
sl st: slip stitch
rep: repeat
rnd: round
sc2tog: single crochet 2 sts together
Cloak: Using black yarn (B)
1 Ch 40. Join to first st to form a ring, sc into each st to end of rnd. (40)
2-5 Sc into each st to end of rnd. (40)
6 *(Sc into next 8 sts, sc2tog) rep from * to end of rnd. (36)
7-8 Sc into each st to end of rnd. (36)
9 *(Sc into next 7 sts, sc2tog) rep from * to end of rnd. (32)
10-13 Sc into each st to end of rnd. (32)
14 *(Sc into next 6 sts, sc2tog) rep from * to end of rnd. (28)
15-19 Sc into each st to end of rnd. (28)
20 *(Sc into next 5 sts, sc2tog) rep from * to end of rnd. (24)
21 Sc into each st to end of rnd. (24)
22 *(Sc into next 4 sts, sc2tog) rep from * to end of rnd. (20)
23-24 Sc into each st to end of rnd. (20)
25 *(Sc into next 3 sts, sc2tog) rep from * to end of rnd. (16)
26-27 Sc into each st to end of rnd. (16)
Without fastening off, now you’ll continue from where you are, making the hood but working in rows instead of rounds.
1 Sc into next 8 sts, ch 1, turn. (8)
2 Sc into next 7 sts, 2sc into next st, sc into next 8 sts, ch 1, turn. (17)
3 Sc into next 8 sts, 2sc into next st, sc into next 8 sts, ch 1, turn. (18)
4 Sc into next 9 sts, 2sc into next st, sc into next 8 sts, ch 1, turn. (19)
5 Sc into next 9 sts, 2sc into next st, sc into next 9 sts, ch 1, turn. (20)
6 Sc into next 10 sts, 2sc into next st, sc into next 9 sts, ch 1, turn. (21)
7 Sc into next 10 sts, 2sc into next st, sc into next 10 sts, ch 1, turn. (22)
8 Sc into next 11 sts, 2sc into next st, sc into next 10 sts, ch 1, turn. (23)
9 Sc into next 11 sts, 2sc into next st, sc into next 11 sts, ch 1, turn. (24)
10 Sc into next 12 sts, 2sc into next st, sc into next 11 sts, ch 1, turn. (25)
11 Sc into next 12 sts, 2sc into next st, sc into next 12 sts, ch 1, turn. (26)
12 Sc into next 12 sts, 2sc into next st, sc into next 13 sts, ch 1, turn. (27)
13 Sc into next 13 sts, 2sc into next st, sc into next 13 sts, ch 1, turn. (28)
14 Sc into next 13 sts, 2sc into next st, sc into next 14 sts, ch 1, turn. (29)
15 Sc into next 14 sts, 2sc into next st, sc into next 14 sts, ch 1, turn. (30)
16 Sc into next 14 sts, 2sc into next st, sc into next 15 sts, ch 1, turn. (31)
17 Sc into next 15 sts, 2sc into next st, sc into next 15 sts, ch 1, turn. (32)
18 Sc into next 16 sts, 2sc into next st, sc into next 15 sts, ch 1, turn. (33)
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Sl st the hood closed: fold the hood “inside out” (see photo) and sl st it closed by inserting your hook into the first st and last st of row 18 and making a slip stitch, and then continuing to slip stitch the two sides together until you reach the point. Fasten off and flip the hood back to the right side out.
Next, fasten on to any st of the rows you just completed and sc around the front edge of the hood to finish it off and make the hood a bit deeper.
Body: Using white yarn (A)
1 Beginning at bottom of foot, make an adjustable ring, ch 1, sc 6 into the ring. Pull closed. (6)
2 Work 2sc into each st to end of rnd. (12)
*insert a stitch marker to keep track of the row starting spot, move marker up after each rnd
3 *(sc into next st, 2sc into next st) rep from * to end of rnd. (18)
4 Sc BLO into each st to end of rnd. (18)
5 Sc into each st to end of rnd. (18)
6 Sc into next 2 sts, sc2tog 7 times, sc into next two sts. (11)
7-14 Sc into each st to end of rnd, fasten off after last rnd. (11)
15 Sc into next 3 sts until you are at the side of the leg, then sc into st 8 on the other leg to join them (this should be the centre of the inner leg)
Continue to sc around both legs to make one round (22)
Optional: Wire
Cut an 8 inch piece of wire. Bend it in half and then twist each end into a loop and bend at a 90 degree angle to create a skeleton for the legs and feet. Insert into the legs of the doll, and loosely add stuffing in the feet and legs, being careful not to overstuff.
If not using wire, loosely stuff the feet and legs and continue on to rnd 16.
16 Sc into next 9 sts, sc2tog, sc into next 9 sts, sc2tog. (20)
17 *(sc into next 3 sts, sc2tog), rep from * to end of rnd. (16)
18-19 Sc into each st to end of rnd. (16)
20 *(Sc into next 6 sts, sc2tog), rep from * to end of rnd. (14)
21 *(Sc into next 5 sts, sc2tog), rep from * to end of rnd. (12)
22-24 Sc into each st to end of rnd. (12)
Finish stuffing the body
25 Sc2tog 6 times to end of rnd. (6)
26 Sc into each st to end of rnd. (6)
27 2sc into each st to end of rnd. (12)
28 *(sc into next st, 2sc into next st). Rep from *to end of rnd. (18)
29 Sc into each st to end of rnd. (18)
30 *(sc into next 2 sts, 2sc into next st), rep from * to end of rnd. (24)
31-33 Sc into each st to end of rnd. (24)
34 *(sc into next 2 sts, sc2tog), rep from * to end of rnd. (18)
Pause and put the cloak on the doll (it won’t fit over the head once it’s been stuffed).
Insert the safety eyes between rnds 34 and 35, 3 sts apart.
Insert the dowel through the neck into the torso. Begin stuffing the head.
35 *(sc into next st, sc2tog), rep from * to end of rnd. (12)
Finish firmly stuffing the head
36 Sc2tog 6 times, close opening and fasten off. (6)
Arms (make two) – Using white yarn (A):
1 Ch 6 and join with a sl st to make a circle, sc into each st to end of rnd. (6)
2-10 Sc into each st to end of rnd. (6)
11 For a video explanation of making the hands and fingers, check out this tutorial on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rko-34B_XUs&t=10s
Sl st into first st. Ch 3, sl st into second ch from hook, sl st into next ch, sc into same st you made the chain in, sl st into next st. This creates the thumb.
Ch 4. Sl st into second ch from hook and next 2 chs. Insert hook into the same st you made the ch in, and then insert it through to the sixth st on the round, coming in from the back. Pull yarn through to make a sl st. (Index finger)
Ch 5. Sl st into second ch from hook and next 3 chs. Insert hook into same st you made the ch in, through the back of the corresponding st on the other side (the 5th st on the rnd). pull yarn through into a sl st. (Middle finger)
Ch 4. Sl st into second ch from hook and next 2 chs. Insert hook into the next st and then insert it through to the corresponding st behind, coming in from the back. Pull yarn through to make a sl st. (Ring finger)
Ch 3. sl st into second ch from hook, sl st into next ch. Sl st into the post directly below that st in the previous Rnd. Fasten off. (Baby finger)
Attaching arms to body:
Cut a 6-inch length of wire. Twist one end into a small loop, and insert that end into one of the arms. The loop should rest at the wrist, and not push all the way into the hand or it will poke through.
Gently add stuffing around the wire to the upper arm, being careful not to overstuff. Very little stuffing is needed in the arms.
Next, insert the other end of the wire through the shoulder area and through the body, coming out on the other side in the corresponding st. Twist the remaining end of the wire into a loop and then insert it into the remaining arm. Loosely stuff the upper arm and then pin both arms in place on the body. Using a needle and thread, stitch the arms to the body
Cloak Sleeves (make 2) – Using black yarn (B)
1 Ch 20, join to 1st ch with a sl st to form a circle. Sc into each st to end of rnd. (20)
2 Sc into each st to end of rnd. (20)
3 Sc into next 9 sts, sc2tog, sc into next 9 sts. (19)
4 Sc into next 9 sts, sc2tog, sc into next 8 sts. (18)
5 Sc into next 8 sts, sc2tog, sc into next 8 sts. (17)
6 Sc into next 7 sts, sc2tog, sc into next 8 sts. (16)
7 Sc2tog, sc into next 6 sts, sc2tog, sc into next 6 sts. (14)
8-14 Sc into each st end of rnd, fasten off after last rnd. (14)
Attaching sleeves to body:
Slide sleeves onto the doll over the arms and stitch in place.
Using black embroidery floss and a yarn needle, stitch a nose as shown.
For the mouth, make a long horizontal stitch, and then make uneven, vertical stitches across it.
Scythe Handle – Using brown yarn (D)
1 Make an adjustable ring, ch 1, sc 5 into the ring. Pull closed. (5)
2-30 Sc into each st to end of rnd. Fasten off after rnd 30. (5)
Optional: to stiffen the handle, insert a piece of wire into the centre.
Scythe Blade:
Using grey yarn (C), ch 16, then starting in 2nd ch from hook: sl st into the next 3 sts; sc into the next 3 sts; hdc into the next 3 sts; dc into the next 3 sts, tc into the next 3 sts, fasten off.
Attach the blade to the handle by pulling the yarn ends from the blade piece inside the handle, and apply some craft glue to secure it.
Glue the scythe into the doll’s hand.
